Lighter Forest Green
#446349
3 parts Burnt Umber, 2 parts Titanium White and 1 part Phthalo Blue. Chromilla's model predicts a 99% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out.
To mix forest green (#2E4D34) in oil, use 76% Viridian Green, 19% Burnt Umber and 5% Phthalo Blue. Chromilla's model predicts a 98% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out. Chromilla is a web-based paint color mixer that turns any color, from a photo, the camera or a hex code, into exact paint-tube ratios for acrylic, oil and watercolor, using Kubelka-Munk pigment mixing and aiming at the color after it dries.
Target
Forest Green
#2E4D34
Predicted dry result
98% match when dryMix to #2F4D36. It dries true to color.
| Paint | Pigment | Share | 100 ml batch |
|---|---|---|---|
| Viridian Green | PG18 | 76% | 76 ml |
| Burnt Umber | PBr7 | 19% | 19 ml |
| Phthalo Blue | PB15 | 5% | 5 ml |
How we calculated this: Kubelka-Munk pigment mixing, then a per-medium dry shift, scored with CIEDE2000. Method and accuracy benchmark. Last checked August 2026.
Terms used here: Tinting strength, Dry shift, Kubelka-Munk, Delta E (dE2000), Pigment code, Gamut.
A deep, natural forest green without going flat. This guide gives you the pigment ratios that land on #2E4D34 in oil, using the same solver that powers the Chromilla mixer.
Checked August 2026
Ratios calibrated for oil. Start with the dominant pigment, add the modifiers in the order below, and adjust in 5% steps to your target swatch.
1. Viridian Green
PG18
2. Burnt Umber
PBr7
3. Phthalo Blue
PB15
Viridian Green, Burnt Umber, and Phthalo Blue, in roughly a 76:19:5 ratio.
Start with Viridian Green at about 76% as your oil base, then work in Burnt Umber and Phthalo Blue in the order above. Adjust in 5% steps until the swatch reads #2E4D34.
Mixing Forest Green yourself lets you approximate an expensive or hard to find tube from pigments you already own, match Forest Green across paint brands whose factory tubes differ, and rebuild the exact color when you run out mid painting. The recipe above is the working starting point.
That pigment is a very strong tinter, add it a touch at a time or it will swallow the mix.
Each variation is its own target (lighter and darker move OKLCH lightness by 0.08; warmer and cooler turn the hue 12 degrees toward red or blue), solved fresh.
#446349
3 parts Burnt Umber, 2 parts Titanium White and 1 part Phthalo Blue. Chromilla's model predicts a 99% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out.
#193820
3 parts Ultramarine Blue, 1 part Cadmium Yellow and 1 part Phthalo Blue. Chromilla's model predicts a 99% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out.
#364C2D
12 parts Viridian Green, 5 parts Ultramarine Blue and 3 parts Raw Umber. Chromilla's model predicts a 99% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out.
#264E3B
9 parts Burnt Umber, 5 parts Phthalo Blue and 3 parts Titanium White. Chromilla's model predicts a 98% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out.
Compare acrylic, oil and watercolor for forest green
Open the live mixer with Forest Green + oil pre-loaded and calibrate to your tubes.
Deep-dive guide
Common mistakes, per-brand recipes, and the honest limits when the target sits outside what real paint can reach.
Read the guidePigment mixing is subtractive, so small ratio changes matter. The mixer refines this recipe to your brand and updates on the fly.