Lighter Emerald Green
#4EBC82
83% Titanium White, 11% Phthalo Blue and 6% Cadmium Yellow. Chromilla's model predicts a 92% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out.
To mix emerald green (#2FA36A) in oil, use 7 parts Titanium White, 2 parts Phthalo Blue and 1 part Cadmium Yellow. Chromilla's model predicts a 93% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out. Chromilla is a web-based paint color mixer that turns any color, from a photo, the camera or a hex code, into exact paint-tube ratios for acrylic, oil and watercolor, using Kubelka-Munk pigment mixing and aiming at the color after it dries.
Target
Emerald Green
#2FA36A
Predicted dry result
93% match when dryMix to #4FA26B. It dries true to color.
| Paint | Pigment | Parts | Share | 100 ml batch |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Titanium White | PW6 | 7 | 70% | 70 ml |
| Phthalo Blue | PB15 | 2 | 20% | 20 ml |
| Cadmium Yellow | PY35 | 1 | 10% | 10 ml |
How we calculated this: Kubelka-Munk pigment mixing, then a per-medium dry shift, scored with CIEDE2000. Method and accuracy benchmark. Last checked August 2026.
Terms used here: Tinting strength, Dry shift, Kubelka-Munk, Delta E (dE2000), Pigment code, Gamut.
A bright, clean mid-green. Sits between viridian and lemony greens. This guide gives you the pigment ratios that land on #2FA36A in oil, using the same solver that powers the Chromilla mixer.
Checked August 2026
Ratios calibrated for oil. Start with the dominant pigment, add the modifiers in the order below, and adjust in 5% steps to your target swatch.
1. Titanium White
PW6
2. Phthalo Blue
PB15
3. Cadmium Yellow
PY35
Titanium White, Phthalo Blue, and Cadmium Yellow, in roughly a 70:20:10 ratio.
Start with Titanium White at about 70% as your oil base, then work in Phthalo Blue and Cadmium Yellow in the order above. Adjust in 5% steps until the swatch reads #2FA36A.
Mixing Emerald Green yourself lets you approximate an expensive or hard to find tube from pigments you already own, match Emerald Green across paint brands whose factory tubes differ, and rebuild the exact color when you run out mid painting. The recipe above is the working starting point.
That pigment is a very strong tinter, add it a touch at a time or it will swallow the mix. White cools and chalks a mix as you add it, so tint in small steps and stop before it goes pastel.
Each variation is its own target (lighter and darker move OKLCH lightness by 0.08; warmer and cooler turn the hue 12 degrees toward red or blue), solved fresh.
#4EBC82
83% Titanium White, 11% Phthalo Blue and 6% Cadmium Yellow. Chromilla's model predicts a 92% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out.
#1C8956
8 parts Titanium White, 5 parts Phthalo Blue and 2 parts Cadmium Yellow. Chromilla's model predicts a 94% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out.
#50A056
11 parts Titanium White, 3 parts Phthalo Blue and 3 parts Cadmium Yellow. Chromilla's model predicts a 99% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out.
#16A37F
12 parts Titanium White, 4 parts Phthalo Blue and 1 part Cadmium Yellow. Chromilla's model predicts a 90% dry match against the target, scored against its own color model, not a measured paint-out.
Open the live mixer with Emerald Green + oil pre-loaded and calibrate to your tubes.
Pigment mixing is subtractive, so small ratio changes matter. The mixer refines this recipe to your brand and updates on the fly.